Andre Soltner, former owner/chef of the three-star restaurant Lutèce and peripatetic teacher and lecturer on food, is a passionate advocate of Alsatian wines. He brags about the charming villages, cathedrals, and great museums of his home province, and is a reliable source of information about the great food and phenomenal wines of Alsace. Several years ago, he guided us on a gastronomic and wine tour of this charming area of gray stone villages in Northeastern France. Its wine have been prized for centuries. Unfortunately, its strategic position between Germany and France made it a constant battleground bounced back and forth like a coveted ball in a soccer game. Its dialect reflects its flip-flop heritage, as does its winemaking, prized for certain varietals grown in Germany, like Riesling. Over time, its French heritage won, manifesting itself in a passion for good food and wine.

By the 16th century, Alsatian wines were the most popular in Europe, until continual warfare and disease brought about a long period of decline. Since World War I, Alsatian winemakers were rewarded with official recognition by the French government with its own Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, a sign of outstanding quality and consistency.

A mosaic of soils and its dry climate, protected from rainfall by the Vosges Mountains, dictate the success of aromatic, fruit-driven whites. Pinot noir, a red grape that flourishes in a cool climate and six white grape varietals — Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Muscat d’Alsace, Tokay Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer — are wines with subtle variations in aromas and tastes. Sometimes, they are blended to make a wine called Edelzwicker, a perfect match for the region’s hearty, flavorful cuisine.

When we crossed the region, past half -timbered houses that reminded me of a fairy-tale landscape, we were blown away by the wines created at the Zind-Humbrecht winery, Olivier Zind-Humbrecht treated us to a tasting of wine I consider among the most outstanding that ever passed my lips. I still recall the simple room where Olivier  generosity gave us an ample tasting, no doubt due more to dropping Soltner’s name than to my wiring credentials. (Alsace wineries, like many in France, do not have tasting rooms.) The memory of those amazing wines that come from a number os small vineyards  light up my heart when I see any of the winery’s production on a wine list or in a wine shop. Trimbach, a larger producer, is another very reliable producer.  One of my favorite varietals, besides the region’s Riesling is the golden Gewurztraminer whose bouquet is as rich as a Chanel perfume. Gewurztramineris the perfect partner for foie gras, and cheese, both soft and blue, Asian cuisines, and many desserts. Seek out Tokay Pinot Gris.

The best news is that Alsatian wines are very affordable. Reach for a recognizable, tall, slim, narrow-shouldered bottle for an absolute treat.





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