A Plug for Chilean Wines

What’s special about Chilean wines? The fact that they are often delicious, and as a general rule, inexpensive, makes them an unbeatable combination. Who can resist products that are pleasing to both palates and wallets?

Land and labor costs are still relatively low, so wines from the narrow spine that runs down the western coast of South America can be produced at a moderate price, many selling between $10 and $20 a bottle. This combination of value and taste make them serviceable and very attractive, particularly for everyday drinking and large parties.

Cortez and Spanish conquistadors introduced grapes and wine-making to Chile four centuries ago. Until the last decade or so, Chile was considered the worldwide wine team’s rookie player until serious winemakers realized the area’s potential. European and American investors like Robert Mondavi recognized that grapes thrive in excellent soils of several regions in the central valley around Santiago with its Mediterranean climate of warm, dry summers and cool nights. A Chilean, Augustan Hunneus, a wine entrepreneur who bought several wineries in Napa Valley, California, has bought land and started a winery in his native land. Investments in technology married modern wine-making techniques to good vineyard management. This unbeatable combination has catapulted the country’s wine industry into the Big League, with some dynamite wines. Chilean reds haven’t batted home runs on every occasion, but they are coming off the bench as significant players. Whites, trailing a short distance behind, are good bets, since constant fine-tuning is bringing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc up from the minors to a point where they can compete favorably with world-class players. Much of this has to do with the passion and pride of younger, enthusiastic Chilean winemakers who are practicing to hit home runs.

Labels to look for: Casa Lapostolle and Concho y Toro, Chile’s largest winery, whose inexpensive reds wines are marketed under the label of Casa Concha, Also look for Santa Rita and Carmen labels as well as Veramonte’s whites. Be aware that some high-end wines top out at $40 a bottle or more.

Personal note: my all time favorites come from  Casas del Bosque Estate Winery in chile’s Casablanca region. Grant Phelps, a Kiwi transplanted from New Zealand,  started his career as a flying winemaker making wine in Ibiza, Hungary, and Cyprus,. He finally  settled down producing a  fantastic terroir driven Sauvignon blanc and Pinot Noir. Phelps understands the particular soil quality and climate of the region, and spends valuable time at harvest deciding the optimum moment to pick, generally at night when low temperatures retard fermentation. Blending, an art in itself, is one of Phelp’s strengths. Call Puro Chile in Manhattan to see if they list the shops that carry Casas del Bosque wines.


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